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Stories about Modern Appalachian Life

HISTORY+CULTURE
You probably know that chestnut trees once blanketed the Appalachians. Before blight decimated them, they accounted for a quarter of all trees in the mountains. Their fruit sustained squirrels, deer, and other forest critters. They worked their way into Native American diets and lore, and when settlers arrived, the trees became a centerpiece of colonial life.
Chestnut wood was ideal for building. It was easy to split and decay resistant. With mature trees soaring to a hundred feet, there was also plenty of it. For centuries, it was used in houses, barns, flooring, and furniture. The wood was so strong it can still be found in split rail fences and old cabins throughout the region. The fruit was also important to settlers. Families harvested chestnuts by the bushel full to eat at home or sell in area markets.
Because the chestnut tree was central to Appalachia's economy and culture, its rapid decline was a blow for our ancestors. In the early 1900s, a deadly fungus was accidentally imported from Asia. It caused sunken cankers to form around chestnut tree trunks. This killed all of the wood above the wound and eventually took each tree down. As the blight spread, these grand trees fell, one by one. By the middle of the century, the American chestnut was all but extinct, leaving a gap in forest ecosystems and a hole in the lives of mountain people.
[caption id="attachment_6411" align="alignright" width="195"] Smoky Mountains Hiking Club rests at a large chestnut tree.[/caption]
For decades, scientists attempted to revive the trees, to create a disease resistant variety. Their efforts were stymied by funding shortages, political whims and, as time passed, the deaths of everyone who remembered seeing plentiful chestnuts in forests, yards, and town squares.
The nation lost interest in the chestnut tree, and its fate might have been sealed were it not for the formation of The American Chestnut Foundation in the 1980s.
Its energetic founders, a group of scientists, set about uniting multiple sectors behind restoration efforts. They were helped by a budding commitment to native fauna among biologists and managers of public land. Gradually, research dollars expanded, breakthroughs were made, and by the first decade of this century, the Foundation had develop a promising strain of the American chestnut.
The new tree was a hybrid--the marriage of the American chestnut and its cousin, the Chinese chestnut. “We diluted out all the traits of the Chinese chestnut except for blight resistance," the foundation’s chief scientist recently told The New York Times. This left the American chestnut biologically intact, adding the important ability to ward off the attacking fungus.
Since 2005, this new hybrid has been growing in high-profiles spots around the country--the National Mall in D.C., the New York Botanical Garden, in other parks, and on school grounds. Now, for the first time, it is being tested in the wild. According to the Times, the trees are being planted across more than 360 acres in Pennsylvania, West Virginia, Virginia, Kentucky, and Tennessee over the next three years.
While these innovative trees aren't available for purchase, you have a chance to get your hands on one. Just visit Heartwood, the Appalachian heritage center in Abingdon, Virginia, during its 3rd Annual Chestnut Restoration Celebration. The event is October 13, starting at 10 AM.
During it, you'll hear stories about these cherished trees from naturalist Doug Elliot and Abingdon-based storyteller Donnamarie Emmert. While munching on fresh roasted chestnuts and other refreshments, you'll receive a briefing on the ongoing restoration efforts; and perhaps most importantly, you'll be able to enter a raffle to win rare Restoration Chestnut seedlings--the strain that is currently being tested across our region.
Tickets are $25.00 for adults and $40.00 for families. The cost of admission also covers membership in the Adopt-A-Tree program, which supports restoration efforts and provides you with ongoing updates.
All told, it's the perfect opportunity to join this growing movement. Who knows. In a few decades, you may point to the tree growing in your yard and tell your grandkids that you were part of this uniquely American success story, that you helped revive the American chestnut.

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Have you spotted one of the few remaining American chestnuts in your neck of the woods? How do they look? Think you'll plant the new variety if it is a success?
Share you chestnut memories and thoughts here.

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UPDATE: Over on Facebook, Jeff Wallace flagged the opportunity to get Restoration Chestnut seeds. With your $300 annual sponsorship of the The American Chestnut Foundation, you receive two seeds to plant in your yard or woods. Thanks, Jeff!
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HISTORY+CULTURE
2011 March on Blair Mountain. Photo provided by mulch.thief on Flickr.

Yesterday, U.S. District Judge Reggie B. Walton ruled against returning Blair Mountain to the National Register of Historic Places. The move would have protected the mountain from mining by Alpha Natural Resources and Arch Coal, which have received mining permits for the historic site.

As you may recall, Blair Mountain was the site of the largest civil uprising since the Civil War. Miners warred against mining companies for fair pay and basic rights in 1921.

According to Ken Ward Jr. at the Charleston Gazette, "the citizen groups could not meet one of the requirements to show 'standing' to bring the case, that of 'redressability,' or that a favorable ruling from the court would redress their injury."

Here is the judge's explanation:

It is likely, therefore, that surface mining would be permitted on the Blair Mountain Battlefield as a result of permits that were acquired prior to the historic district’s inclusion on the National Register. An order from this Court restoring the Blair Mountain Battlefield to the National Register, therefore, will not prevent mining from occurring should the coal mining companies who own existing permits choose to exercise their rights afforded by the permits. The Court having only a limited ability to redress the plaintiffs’ asserted injuries, the plaintiffs have failed to meet their burden under the final prong of the standing inquiry.
A spokesman for the advocacy group Appalachian Voices, responded with this statement:
The real story is the relentless campaign by coal companies to undermine the national significance of Blair Mountain so they can blow it up to get at the coal. It’s simply stunning that they would even consider demolishing the site of the largest battle on American soil since the Civil War and one of the most important historical landmarks for organized labor in the world. Can you imagine if a company sought to turn the Gettysburg battlefield into a massive landfill? Is nothing sacred to these big coal companies beyond next quarter’s profits?
Today’s court decision was based on a technicality and is not the last word on the fate of Blair Mountain. We call on the Obama Administration to use its full power to ensure that this national treasure is protected. Furthermore, we call on Alpha Natural Resources and Arch Coal to respect our cultural heritage and the memory of those who gave their lives to improve the conditions of working people by abandoning this outrageous effort to conduct mountaintop removal coal mining operations on Blair Mountain.
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HISTORY+CULTURE
I just discovered this excellent talk at Berea College. It features two of Appalachia's most noted scholars--bell hooks (intentionally uncapitalized) and Dr. Bill  Turner. Both are Kentuckians. She was raised in a rural black community deep in the hills. He was raised in a mining family in Harlan County.
Here, they bust loose about the hidden lives of black Appalachians and nasty stereotypes about white folk from the region. At first the discussion seems a little pedantic, but stick with it. Dr. Bill Turner keeps it real by saying things like, "When I first came to Berea College, I couldn't believe that they let all these squirrel run around without nobody shooting them!"

Between the quips, they cover their mountain upbringings and how race plays out differently in Appalachia. The way they drift between the black experience and white stereotyping is telling.
One minute Dr. Turner is saying, "Had whites left West Virginia at the rate and in the numbers that blacks left West Virginia, there wouldn't be any more people in West Virginia than are in this room." The next, Bell Hooks is talking about how the media conjures up these images of "hillbilly white supremacists" who are ready to assassinate our black president.
I'm reminded that, while different groups face different challenges in the region, we really are one mountain people.

[youtube]BEPEtcqPOyE&feature[/youtube]


 
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HISTORY+CULTURE
My friend Dave Tabler posted this rocking video from Tennessee's Museum of Appalachia, along with the perfect description:
"The last 2 seconds of this video is truly impressive: the anvil explodes upward, then lands TWO FEET away from the launch pad. That's some seriously amazing anvil engineering going on to keep that baby from veering off into the crowd!"
[youtube]n1xS_FK_Xs4&feature[/youtube]
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HISTORY+CULTURE

Good news! Remember the petition I created last week? This is the one calling on Carilion Clinic to extend family memberships at its gyms to unmarried couples, including same sex couple.
Well, in eight days it attracted more than 90,000 signatures along with national media coverage and prompted Carilion to revise its criteria for family membership!
The below statement was posted this afternoon on the Roanoke and Botetourt Athletic Clubs' Facebook page.
I applaud Carilion Clinic for moving so quickly and for responding to the outpouring of support on my Change.org petition for Will Trinkle, Juan Granados, and their two-year-old son Oliver Trinkle-Granados.
I also want to thank everyone who signed my Change.org petition. You hailed from all over-Roanoke to Rome-and you delivered a clear message that there is no room for this kind of discrimination in the world.
Congratulations to Will, Juan, Oliver, and all of you!
**
Dear RAC/BAC members,
We want to let you know that the Roanoke and Botetourt Athletic Clubs are making a change in our membership guidelines. We will be distributing an email blast to all members, but because the change is important and effective immediately, we are sharing the news on Facebook as well.
Since opening our doors over three decades ago, we have always strived to provide the very best in service, programs, and staffing. Our goal has been, and always will be to encourage and inspire health and wellness among all members of the communities we serve.
In keeping with this goal, and in recognition of the many contemporary households that can benefit from our facilities through discounted membership fees, we are pleased to announce that we have expanded our Family Membership into a new Household Membership with the following criteria:
Household Membership:
A household consists of a primary member and up to one additional household member that permanently lives in the household, and any of their dependent children under the age of 22 who also reside in the household on a permanent basis.
Club dues will not change; dues for the Household Membership will be the same as the Family Membership it is replacing. There is no requirement to amend your membership, but should this change be advantageous to you, please contact our sales office. If we may answer any questions, do not hesitate to contact us.
We thank you for your continued patronage and will never take that for granted.
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HISTORY+CULTURE
Keith Judd, Felon and U.S. Presidential Candidate

Something's in the air in DC, and it smells a lot like coal dust to me. Last week, Jay Rockefeller called on coal companies to stop using scare tactics and denying the inevitable energy changes. Now I'm learning that, just before the Senator's speech, one coal county sent a big, sooty cloud toward Washington. This one, though, was directed at The White House.

In the May Democratic primary, Mingo County, West Virginia gave 61 percent of the vote to Keith Judd, a convicted felon. Now mind you, Judd isn't the kind of felon who paid his debt to society and is trying to make things right. He is serving time right now in a Texas prison for a fraud conviction. Somehow he managed to get himself on the West Virginia ballot and beat the President of the United States.

I heard about this unlikely showdown while riding in the car today. I was listening to the below NPR piece from Noah Adams, who is no stranger to these parts. He wrote the 2001 book Far Appalachia: Following the New River North and has regularly covered the region.

Take a listen to the story, and please oh please tell me what you think. Does Mingo County represent WV on this, or is it the outlier? What do you make of the locals interviewed in this piece? And is coal the new black, cause it sure seems to be getting a lot of attention?

NPR: OBAMA'S 'CLEAN COAL' FIGHTING WORDS TO W.VA. DEMS

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HISTORY+CULTURE
Here are cooling stations across the Appalachians. Please share this on Facebook and Twitter so folks can find a place to stay cool!
Kentucky
- Benton: Joe Creason Community Building (in H.H. Lovett Park)
- Lyon County: Eddyville United Methodist Church, New Bethel Church, courthouse (until 4 pm weekdays)
- Marion: Courthouse
- Paducah: Paducah Recreation Center (16th and Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. Blvd.)
- Princeton: Courthouse and senior citizen building
- Trigg County: East Golden Pond Fire Department
Virginia
- Alleghany County: Mountain View Elementary School (2-6 pm)
- Altavista: 1280 Main Street
- Amherst County: Old Amhest Co. Jail (instructed to use the front door and go down the steps; located in the basement of the Sheriff's Office), Pedlar Fire & Rescue Building
- Botetourt County: Botetourt High School
- Brookneal: Brookneal Fire Department (103 Wickcliffe Ave.)
- Clifton Forge: Central Methodist Church and Oak Hill Bible Church
- Concord: Thomas Terrace Baptist Church (10660 Richmond Highway)
- Covington: Mead/WestVaco Training Center on Riverside Drive
- Christiansburg: Christiansburg Middle School
- Clover: Clover Volunteer Fire Department (North Gayle Street)
- Danville: Thomas Road Baptist Church
- Franklin County: Benjamin Franklin Middle School
- Lynchburg: Lyn-Dan Fire Station (578 Lawyer’s Road), Heritage High School, Thomas Road Baptist Church
- Madison Heights: Amelon Elementary School
- Nathalie: Republican Grove Baptist Church (1075 Tobacco Road), Hunting Creek Baptist Church (4055 Hunting Creek Road)
- Pulaski: Pulaski Elementary (Rt. 11 and Morehead Ln.), Riverlawn Elementary (Rt. 114 and Viscoe Rd.), Snowville Elementary (4858 Lead Mine Rd.)
- Radford: Riverlawn Elementary School
- Roanoke: Roanoke Civic Center in the Special Events Center, Crossroads Church (near intersection of Hershberger and Williamson on Delray Street NW), Thomas Road Baptist Church
- Rockbridge County: Rockbridge Baths Fire Department, Rockbridge County High School, Walker's Creek Fire Department
- Rustburg: Rustburg Rescue Squad (238 Village Highway)
- Salem: Salem Civic Center
- South Boston: South Boston Vol. Fire Support Center (Wilborn Ave.)
- Virgilina: Grace Baptist Church (1058 Buckshoal Road)
West Virginia
- Blacksville: Clay-Battelle High School
- Charleston:  Kanawha City Recreation Center, The King Center on Donnally St., North Charleston Recreation Center, Riverside High School (overnight avbl.), Dunbar Church of the Nazarene located at 1334 Lightner Avenue,  Marmet Recreation Center, Tenth Avenue Church of God
- Kingwood: Craig Civic Center
- Lewis County: Pricetown Volunteer Fire Department
- Morgantown, the American Red Cross building on Pineview Drive
- Sissionville: Aldersgate United Methodist Church 6823 Sissionville Dr.
- Upshur County: Banks District and Ellamore VFDs
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HISTORY+CULTURE
After last night's awful storm, millions are without electricity, and temperatures are climbing into the hundreds across the region. I'm really worried about folks suffering in the heat. If you are too and have space to spare, please leave a note here. If you need a place to cool off, do the same. Hopefully, we can match some folks up.
A lot folks are, of course, reticent about taking in strangers. No worries. There are other ways for you to help. Consider helping friends and neighbors remove downed limbs or contacting your local Red Cross to see if they need volunteers.
Next up--a list of cooling stations in the Appalachians.
Hang in there!
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HISTORY+CULTURE
Maybe Senator Rockefeller's recent speech got me rilled up, but I just started my first online petition. While Rockefeller was talking about coal, I'm addressing good ol' fashioned fairness. Apparently, it's in short supply over at the corporate offices of Carilion Clinic, the largest healthcare provider in Southwest Virginia.
A gym owned by the company recently issued a family membership to Will Trinkle, his partner Juan Granados, and their 2-yeard-old son Oliver. The men were interested in joining the gym so they could take their boy swimming in the outdoor pool this summer. Gym staff told Trinkle that pool access required a family membership, so he signed up.
Nine days later, a gym representative contacted Trinkle and told him that his application was processed by mistake. According to Trinkle, the representative said that the company was "‘tightening policies’ so no families like us would ever ‘get as far’ as we had.” The representative went on to claim that Roanoke Athletic Club is following Virginia state law, which does not recognize same sex marriage.
"We were really surprised," says Trinkle, "It's like someone punched us in the stomach."
I don't have to tell y'all that this hits home. I'm a Roanoke native, and for nearly twenty years, I have defended my homeland when outsiders try to play us as backwoods, uneducated, gun-totting hillbillies with no more than three teeth each in our heads.
Oh, and I'm also a gay guy.
So when one of the largest companies in the Appalachians pulls a move like this, I see red. Not only does it mean that my partner and I would be denied a family membership at this gym, it also means that a company with a growing profile, that just opened a lauded medical school in partnership with Virginia Tech, that truly represents the region when it speaks, has painted all of us--all Appalachians--as backward and bigoted.
If you know better, then I ask you to speak up. Please, take two minutes. Sign this petition. Call on Carilion Clinic to treat all couples fairly and make it clear that mountain people are bright, forward thinking, and, above all, fair-minded.

CLICK HERE TO SIGN

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HISTORY+CULTURE
Photo provided by Sen. Rockefeller on Flickr.

Last Wednesday, Senator Jay Rockefeller gave a controversial speech on the floor of the U.S. Senate. He spoke in opposition to the Inhofe Resolution, which would have disallowed emission limits on mercury and other toxins at coal-fed power plants. The resolution failed on a 46-53 vote.

Rockefeller's carefully chosen words have been covered by media outlets from coast to coast. Politico called it a "stunning coal-industry-needs-to-face-reality speech." The Salt Lake Tribune said that Rockefeller "told the truth when he said the coal industry was doing itself and its employees no favor when it insisted on clinging to a dirty, polluted and technologically backward past." The Washington Post questioned whether this represent's Rockefeller's "legacy project" since the senator is not expected to run for re-election when his term is up.

Take a look for yourself. What do you think of Rockefeller's speech? Do you agree that coal companies have taken a stance that "denies the inevitability of change in the energy industry, and unfairly leaves coal miners in the dust?"

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Madame President, I rise today in the shadow of one seemingly narrow Senate vote — the Inhofe resolution of disapproval of the Environmental Protection Agency’s rules on mercury and air toxics — to talk about West Virginia. About our people – our way of life, our health, our state’s economic opportunity – and about our future.

Coal has played an important part in our past and can play an important role in our future but it will only happen if we face reality.

This is a critical and contentious time in the Mountain State. The dialogue on coal, its impacts, and the federal government’s role has reached a fevered pitch.
Carefully orchestrated messages that strike fear in the hearts of West Virginians and feed uncertainty about coal’s future are the subject of paid television ads, billboards, break room bulletin boards, public meetings, letters and lobbying campaigns.

A daily onslaught declares that coal is under siege from harmful outside forces, and that the future of the state is bleak unless we somehow turn back the clock, ignore the present and block the future.

West Virginians understandably worry that a way of life and the dignity of a job is at stake. Change and uncertainty in the coal industry is unsettling. But my fear is that concerns are also being fueled by the narrow view of others with divergent motivations – one that denies the inevitability of change in the energy industry, and unfairly leaves coal miners in the dust.

The reality is that many who run the coal industry today would rather attack false enemies and deny real problems than find solutions.

Instead of facing the challenges and making tough decisions like men of a different era, they are abrogating their responsibilities to lead. Consol’s Bobby Brown, was never timid, especially when he and the United Mine Workers turned around labor management relations in the central coal fields.

Scare tactics are a cynical waste of time, money and worst of all coal miners’ hopes. But sadly, these coal operators have closed themselves off from any other opposing voices and few dared to speak out for change – even though it’s been staring them in the face for years.

This reminds me of the auto industry, which also resisted change for decades. Coal operators should learn from both the mistakes and recent success of the auto industry. I passionately believe coal miners deserve better than they are getting from operators and West Virginia certainly deserves better too.

Let’s start with the truth. Coal today faces real challenges, even threats and we all know what they are:

–  First, our coal reserves are finite and many coal-fired power plants are aging. The cheap, easy coal seams are diminishing, and production is falling – especially in the Central Appalachian Basin in Southern West Virginia. Production is shifting to lower cost areas like the Illinois and Powder River Basins. The average age of our nation’s 1,100-plus coal fired plants is 42.5 years, with hundreds of plants even older. These plants run less often, are less economic and the least efficient.

– Second, natural gas use is on the rise. Power companies are switching to natural gas because of lower prices, cheaper construction costs, lower emissions and vast, steady supplies. Even traditional coal companies like Consol are increasingly investing in natural gas over coal.

–  Third, the shift to a lower carbon economy is not going away and it’s a disservice to coal miners and their families to pretend that it is. Coal company operators deny that we need to do anything to address climate change despite the established scientific consensus and mounting national desire for a cleaner, healthier environment.

Despite the barrage of ads, the EPA alone is not going to make or break coal. There are many forces exerting pressure and that agency is just one of them.

We need real world solutions to protect the future of coal.

Two years ago, I offered a “time out” on EPA carbon rules — a two-year suspension that could have broken the logjam in Congress and given us an opportunity to address carbon issues legislatively.

But instead of supporting this approach, coal operators went for broke when they demanded a complete repeal of all EPA authority to address carbon emissions forever. They demanded all or nothing, turned aside a compromise and in the end got nothing.

Last year, they ran exactly the same play, demanding all or nothing on the cross-state air pollution rule – refusing to entertain any middle ground, and denying even a hint of legitimacy for the views on the other side. And they lost again, badly.

So here we are with another all-or-nothing resolution destined to fail. This foolish action wastes time and money that could have been invested in the future of coal. Instead, with each bad vote they give away more of their leverage and they lock in failure.

This time the issue is whether to block an EPA rule – the Mercury and Air Toxics Standards (MATS or Utility MACT) – that requires coal-fired power plants to reduce mercury and other toxic air pollution.

I oppose this resolution because I care so much about West Virginians.
Without good health it’s difficult to hold down a job or live the American dream. Chronic illness is debilitating and impacts a family’s income, prosperity and ultimately its happiness.

The annual health benefits of the rule are enormous. EPA has relied on thousands of studies that established the serious and long term impact of these pollutants on premature deaths, heart attacks, hospitalizations, pregnant women, babies and children.

Moreover, it significantly reduces the largest remaining human-caused emissions of mercury–a potent neurotoxin with fetal impacts.

Maybe some can shrug off the advice of the American Academy of Pediatrics and others but I cannot.

This rule has been in the works through a public process for many years. Some businesses – including some utilities in West Virginia – already have invested in technology and are ready to comply.

Others haven’t prepared – because they have chosen to focus on profits rather than upgrading or investing in these smaller, older and less efficient coal-fired plants that were paid for decades ago and that they’ll tell you would be retired anyway.

That’s right. Every single plant slated for closure in West Virginia was already on the chopping block from their own corporate boards within several years.

It’s important to be truthful to miners that coal plants will close because of decisions made by corporate boards long ago – not just because of EPA regulations, but because the plants are no longer economical as utilities build low-emission natural gas plants.

Natural gas has its challenges, too – with serious questions about water contamination and shortages and other environmental concerns. But while coal executives pine for the past, natural gas looks to the future -investing in technologies to reduce their environmental footprint. And they’re working with others on ways to support the safe development of gas – and we will all be watching.

It’s not too late for the coal industry to step up and lead by embracing the realities of today and creating a sustainable future. Discard the scare tactics. Stop denying science. Listen to what markets are saying about greenhouse gases and other environmental concerns, to what West Virginians are saying about their water and air, their health, and the cost of caring for seniors and children who are most susceptible to pollution.

Stop and listen to West Virginians – miners and families included – who see that the bitterness of the fight has taken on more importance than any potential solutions. Those same miners care deeply about their children’s health and the streams and mountains of West Virginia. They know we can’t keep to the same path.

Miners, their families, and their neighbors are why I came to West Virginia and they are why I made our state my home. I’ve been proud to stand shoulder to shoulder with coal miners and we’ve done a lot of good together over the years.

For more than 20 years, I’ve worked to protect the health and safety of coal miners – everything from the historic Coal Act, to mine safety laws, pensions, and Black Lung benefits – always with miners’ best interest in mind.

And despite what critics contend, I’m standing with coal miners today by voting against this resolution.

I don’t support this Resolution of Disapproval because it does nothing to look to the future of coal. It does nothing to consider the voices of West Virginians. It moves us backward, not forward. And unless this industry aggressively leans into the future, coal miners will lose the most.

Beyond the frenzy over this one EPA rule, we need to focus squarely on the real task of finding a long-term future for coal that addresses legitimate environmental and health concerns.

Let me be clear. I’m frustrated with some of the top levels of the coal industry, but I’m not giving up hope for a strong clean coal future. To get there, we’ll need a bold partner, innovation and major public and private investments.

In the meantime, we shouldn’t forget that coal fired power plants provide good jobs for thousands of West Virginians. It remains the underpinning for many small communities and I will always be focused foremost on their future.

Instead of finger pointing, we should commit ourselves to a smart action plan that will help with job transition opportunities, sparking new manufacturing and exploring the next generation of technology.

None of this is impossible. Solving big challenges with American ingenuity is what we do. West Virginia knows energy and West Virginia doesn’t shrink from challenge. We have the chance here to not just grudgingly accept the future – but to boldly embrace it.

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HISTORY+CULTURE
[caption id="" align="alignright" width="240"]WV - John Henry statue John Henry statue before restoration. Photo provided by Smythe Richbourg.[/caption]
This week, leaders in Talcott, West Virginia rededicated the town's most famous statue. It depicts an eight foot tall, muscle bound John Henry, standing with his feet spread wide and a hammer in both hands. He looks like he is ready to spring off of his stone base and drive some serious steel.
The bronze statue is a testament to the folk legend, whose win over a mechanical steel driver is celebrated in songs and stories. Unveiled forty years ago, the statue sported twenty bullet holes, countless dings, and layers of paint when the John Henry Historical Park began work on it. After careful restoration, Mr. Henry was returned to his usual spot--the entrance to the Great Bend Tunnel.
This is where the legendary battle between man and machine was supposed to have happened. For decades, it has been accepted as fact by every towns person and tourist who has snapped photos of the hulking statue. No one had much reason to question it, at least not until Scott Reynolds Nelson came along.
Nelson is a historian at the College of William and Mary, and he asserts that this famous showdown could not have occurred at Great Bend Tunnel. He says that there isn't a single record indicating that a steam hammer was ever used in this spot.
Nelson believes that the actual site was the nearby Lewis Tunnel, which is situated between Talcott and Millboro, Virginia. A steam drill was used there, and, notably, so was human labor.
Those laborers were actually prisoners from the Virginia State Penitentiary. Still reeling from the Civil War, the state of Virginia had begun leasing convicts to private companies. Their work reaped $.25 per day, and during this period, many men were placed with the Chesapeake & Ohio Railway. Their job was to take up chisels and hammers and tunnel through the Allegheny mountains.
Intrigued but this fact, Nelson began to search state prison records, where he encountered a man who upends the John Henry myth. In 1866, a young New Jersey native, only 18 years old, was stationed by the Union Army in Virginia. While there, he was convicted of stealing from a Richmond grocer. He was jailed at the state penitentiary, and later, leased to the C&O Railroad. His name was John William Henry.
This is a uniquely compelling find, because other historians have relied on personal accounts from the 1920s, interviews with men who claimed to have worked with Henry. The records found by Nelson are the first to difinitevely put a man with the right name in the right place at the right time.
Unfortunately, the trail ends there. Nelson's man disappeared from all public records by 1874. According to a New York Times articles on Nelson, there was "no mention of pardon, parole or release, strongly suggesting that [Henry] died while working on the railroads and not inside the prison, where his death would have been recorded."
Some of those interviewed in the 1920s said that one in five men died while driving steel into mountain stone. Tons of rock would shake loose and tumble down on them. This could have been Henry's fate, or he could have died according to the legend, from exhaustion after he defeated the machine.
Either way, Henry's final resting place may well be back at the prison grounds. Lyrics from the popular ballad of John Henry say, "They took John Henry to the white house, and buried him in the sand." The main building at the Virginia State Penitentiary was, in fact, a large, white structure, and prisoners were commonly buried on site. In fact, when the prison was demolishing in 1992, workers uncovered 300 anonymous skeletons that had been buried without any markers.
Was the folk hero John Henry among them?
It's impossible to say. No one knows where his body lies, but I think we do know where his spirit stands. The good folks of Talcott, West Virginia have given John Henry a true and permanent home. Whether it's by the right tunnel or not, they've created a place where we can celebrate Henry's legend and where he can remind us that whatever the trials of our day, nothing trumps the power of the human spirit.
[youtube]g6vcvYJCkic&feature[/youtube]
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HISTORY+CULTURE

Growing up, I thought everyone had a fairy stone. My mother kept hers in the box that held her most treasured jewelry. She'd take it out from time-to-time and lay the cross-shaped stone in my hand. It was cool and brown, lightly polished with a metal loop on top but otherwise imperfect, raw, like it had just been pulled from the ground.


"This cross wasn't made by man," Mother would tell me.


Every time, I was amazed. I'd studied rocks in school. I'd pulled them from countless river beds. I'd never seen stones like this, but she said that there were many of them and that they were created by heartbroken fairies.


Many years ago, the fairies were happy, she'd explain. They lived in the woods not far away and were dancing when a stranger came. He'd traveled the world, and he stopped to tell them about the things he'd seen--great pyramids, rivers as wide as seas, and the saddest death ever.


A man who said he was the son of God had spent his life healing people and spreading love. "Jesus," I'd whisper. Mother would say, "Yes, Jesus," and continue. The stranger told the fairies that some men were afraid of Jesus and threatened by him, so they captured him and nailed his hands and feet to a cross. They whipped him, starved him, and let him die.


The fairies had never heard anything so sad. They began to weep and when their magic tears splashed against the earth, they suddenly crystallized and were frozen forever in the shapes of little crosses.

 

 

Fairy Stone State Park. Photo provided by "hsarik" on Flickr.

I'd squeeze the rock in my hand, certain that it was an ancient fairy tear and wonder if I could find a fairy stone of my own. I searched every stand of trees in our suburban neighborhood and kept my eyes to the ground whenever we were in the woods. I never found one, but maybe I just wasn't looking in the right place.


This Wednesday, June 6, Fairy Stone State Park in southwest Virginia will host a fairy stone huntand a necklace making workshop. The park, named after the famous keepsakes found within its borders, is one of a kind. Stones form like crosses in other places, but they are only found in abundance at this one park, and, of course, nowhere else has built such a endearing story around the stones.


Geologically speaking, the stones are staurolite, a combination of silica, iron and aluminum. According to the Virginia State Parks website, staurolite crystallizes at 60 or 90 degree angles, creating the stone's cross-like structure.

The mineral, which is only found in rocks that have been subjected to great heat and pressure, was formed during the rise of the Appalachian Mountains.


As a grown up, I think the truth behind the stones is nearly as enthralling as the myth. 

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